After more than 40 years, I was able to return to Huê by weather of big heat, in spite of we were already in January, 2007, the 12è month according to the lunar calendar, in full winter.
Arrived at Huê at 7 pm by the flight since Saigon, having settled down and dinner, Yên took me to make a tour of Huê at night, since the house until "An Cuu", crossing the bridge "câu moi", entering in " thành nôi ", following the river of perfume, crossing the bridge " Truong Tiên " then return in the point of departure …
Streets of former days are always there. With their rows of trees always standing in the night silence, I sit behind Yên. I was happy belong to Huê in a not planned journey. The bridge " Truong Tiên " does not attract me any more as before. There are not girls anymore in white or purple dress on their bicycle, crossing the bridge, leaving their dress flying away according to the wind.
Today we do not meet any more at Huê young girls with the long hair under conical hats, very famous local production of Huê which the visitors never forgot to buy to offer them to their mom, sisters or lover. Now, at the time of school, Huê is filled with young girls and young boys on motorcycles, getting dressed in the last fashion. I am as lost and sad. I missed something that I did not manage to guess to what it could correspond …
During two spot weeks, every day Quynh Phi, a daughter of a friend brought me to the work or to visit diverse places, as the stands of tasting of "chè", " bánh bôt loc ", " bánh bèo " … Sat behind the motorcycle, I felt made look younger as if I was 20 years old, happy by basing me in the rhythm of the life here.
A particular feature of Huê is the rain …
Belong to Huê without seeing the rain is a big neglect … It is not to know Huê.
The rain of Huê is not also strong as to Saigon. It is fine as the dust, dragging itself ceaselessly. It can fall and stop at any time. It can be sunny and every minute it is there. It can last days, weeks. So belongs the rain to Huê, it falls there slowly, as a whisper, but enough to wet clothes … It falls a lot there that houses and gardens have no time to dry. I have the impression that the rain crosses roofs, walls of houses and rots them. In time, the humidity gains the house, making it cold. We have difficulty in sleeping at night, in spite of coats … A lot of clothes … Caps, scarfs … Socks in feet … Nothing goes on, the cold is always there.
Every morning, after the breakfast, Yên brought me to the market. I had the impression to have lost this custom. Then the time becomes long, in more the rain followed us. The stands of chickens, meats, vegetables are all wet. Sandals left wet feet. Nobody found to repeat, people are without fear in the rain, we made just like that …
In the stand of fishes, Yên chooses without distinction of river fish and sea fish to prepare the meals. During two weeks, I was able to eat some fish every day. A change with regard to Paris, where I eat mostly some meat. For fear to make the badly smelling house, because of my husband who does not like the fish, then he finds pretexts so that I do not cook it.
Huê has sudden many transformation, but the rain of Huê stays and makes unfortunate the population. Because of the cold, it had not enough warm clothes, either their house is not enough isolated or stays without heating. It begins to worry when the rain arrives, every house has its lot of difficulties, clothes are always wet. In houses always hung clothes after wash, it had no time to dry …
In the antan, every time I went to Huê, at about July, the season of lotuses arrives on the lake " Tinh Tâm ". At noon, after the lunch, I went at the edge of the lake to admire them. The flowers of lotus moved with the wind, buds dashed above leaves, spread as the palm of a hand as to support the lotus. A light perfume got free of mixed white and pink lotuses. We say that lotuses from here are the best.
Everybody dreaded the cold if it was necessary to go to Huê in winter. As usual, I had planned winter clothes …
But the sky is whimsical, as to make me bear the heat as previously, it was warm in the descent of the plane. I was full of sweat, dreading to have to buy light clothes. But from the next day, it began to rain. The rain lasted during three weeks when I belonged to Huê until the moment when we took the plane for Hanoi. All my winter clothes are not enough.
The rain to Huê is unpredictable, we have to get ready before, otherwise we can fall ill.
Maybe that made for a long time that I did not go any more to Huê, so I did not find any more raincoats with the front with buttons. I find only raincoats that we thread by the head as ponchos ancient soldiers. People sat behind motorcycles threaded the poncho by down. There was even ponchos with double heads, very funny to look. But it was very dangerous because raincoats flew according to the wind, if it hung on to wheels, what will be the consequences?
Every day after waking up, if I did not go to the market with Yên, then I go to the cybercafé to send e-mails and take news. The rain fell me slowly on cheeks, head as to wake me. As pavements are wet, I was afraid of sliding, then I walked on the road, paying attention on the traffic. Sometimes I took salvoes of rainwater thrown by reckless drivers with their vehicles.
Being used in routes, I began to observe the surroundings. The street leading to the market, following the river " An Cuu " which pours silently since time, witness of the life during centuries in the poems, the songs on Huê …Bridges were built to allow the population to achieve easily " thành nôi " as bridges " Lò Dúc ", " Lò Rèn ", "An Cuu", "Moi" or " Phú Xuân " … Here, in olden days, it was the earth of kings and queens, children of the dynasty of Nguyên. So I was able to see still doors in the name of " phu Tùng Thiên Vuong ", etc. …
.. sông An Cựu nắng đục mưa trong
At the edge of the river, I was able to see altars of any sizes, with bowls to plant incenses. They are arranged at feet of " cây Da " or " cây Si " with the roots which crawl on the ground, creating an atmosphere of religious faiths.
Phuong Oanh.